MAKE-UP complexion
- THE COMPLEXION:
- The natural complexion of the skin results from several components:
- The natural complexion of the skin
- The thickness of the skin and epidermis
- The transparency of the stratum corneum
- The regularity of the skin texture
- The dry or oily type of the skin surface
- The greater or lesser sensitivity of the skin Skin aging
FOUNDATION:
Colored products based on insoluble pigments intended to unify the complexion and modify natural skin tone either by lightening the complexion in the case of Asians, or to strengthen the tone of the complexion in Europe, or to lighten the complexion by providing a pink note for African women.
Embellishment does not only go through coloring but can be accompanied by various optical effects that help to give either a matte finish or illumination of the complexion or the camouflage of imperfections, fine lines and wrinkles, the blurring of facial contours or even the uniformity of the skin texture: peach skin appearance.
COSMETIC QUALITIES
- Color adaptable to each skin tone
- Ease and speed of application
- Coverage to hide imperfections and unify naturally
- Give shine and luminosity without shine
- Lightness and comfort
- Soft, velvety, soft-touch finish
- Long lasting matte finish
- Long lasting effect, without turning or staining (non transfer)
- Moisturizing and protective properties without excess occlusivity
- Anti-aging properties: soft focus to hide wrinkles, firming
THE WHITE PIGMENTARY CHARGE
It consists of mineral or organic powders which aim to confer to foundations of cosmetic characteristics and makeup results.
Their particle size is a few microns.
These fillers are not colored and have more or less coverage important. They make it possible to reduce the impression of fat in the backgrounds of off.
COSMETIC ADDITIVES
The usual antioxidants: they limit the oxidation over time of colored textures: BHA, BHT, tocopherols …
Preservatives : These are those traditionally used in cosmetics White.
Perfumes :They have either neutral notes or precise notes adapted to a specific range of products.
Silicones :Dimethicone (dimethylpolysiloxane), cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyols
polymers: Polyvinylpyrrolidone amaron V216
The active ingredients: The treating properties are nowadays classically claimed.The same types as those used in the emulsions white cosmetics: hydration, sun protection, tightening or anti-wrinkle effects …
COSMETIC FORMS
According to consumer requirements for complexion products, the offer marketing is now broad in terms of textures and presentations packaging.
Aqueous suspensions Tinted face and body
gels H / E emulsions Fluid foundations Tinted creams
H /E emulsions Cream foundations
I / O emulsions
Anhydrous fatty products Compact foundations
Aerosol foams Powder foundations For dry use
two-way Cake Shapes foundations for wet or dry use
POWDERS:
The powders are intended to perfect make-up in order to provide a matte finish, uniform, satin, soft and velvety. Powders are dry forms that exist in two presentations: free and compacted
FREE POWDERS
Component particles separated from each other
Degree of coverage or transparency
Application characteristics
Softness on application and comfort over time Matte
properties Product volatility or density
COMPACT POWDERS
Component particles held together by a binder
Ease of compaction Shock
resistance during transport
Crumbling just good without too much or not enough
Good adhesion to the skin
Good resistance over time;
Adhesion: kaolin, metallic soaps: zinc stearate, stearate of magnesium…, polyurethanes, polyethylene, silica powders, polypropylenes, undecylenate zinc…
Sweet: starches, kaolins, silk powders
Cosmetic activity: active ingredients used at least
Microbial protection preservatives: parabens, dehydro-acetic acid, dehydroacetate, between 0.5% and 0.7%
Perfume: cover the over-generated odors of the fillers with preferably the same note as the foundation.
Transparency,shine: natural or synthetic micas … ..
Color: mineral pigments: iron oxides, lacquers organic: azo, nitro, xanthene, quinolines.
Special effects pearl, bismuth oxychloride, mica-titanium, soft-focus pigments that diffuse light in all directions and hide wrinkles, photochromes: transparent in the absence of light and colored in the presence of light, this which allows color uniformity between inside and outside…..
Spread and comfort: fatty esters, MIP, isopropyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate
